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Monday, December 26, 2011
Monday, December 12, 2011
Trumpet Care - The Care and Feeding of a Trumpet
As a band director, I've come to realize that most trumpet players don't clean their instruments often enough. I've actually seen trumpets that were almost totally clogged with crud. That is the "technical term" for the greenish, grayish, brownish sludge that forms inside an instrument over time. If it's been awhile since you cleaned your trumpet, prepare yourself for what will come out of it, but your trumpet will play better after it's clean.
Trumpets are fairly simple things. They are basically just 4 1/2 feet of brass tubing with valves and slides. It's the careful manufacturing and hand work that make it into a trumpet that plays well. A well-care-for trumpet of good quality will last minimally 10-20 years with a lot of playing. A trumpet cared for poorly will be trash in a short time.
Although this article makes it sound like cleaning a trumpet is a long and involved process, once you have done it a couple times, it will only take you 15-20 minutes to complete, and it will make your instrument last much longer.
Unlike woodwind instruments (flutes, clarinets, saxophones, etc.), trumpets can be given baths to clean them. In fact, it's the only good way to truly clean them. You could take them to a music repair shop for an "acid bath", but that's really not necessary if given baths once a month or so. Once you get accumulation of minerals in the horn, it will take an acid bath to remove them, but if you give the horn a bath often, your trumpet usually won't get mineral deposits.
You'll need a flexible cleaning brush or a cleaning snake, a valve casing brush, and a mouthpiece brush. You'll also need silver polish or a silver polishing cloth if it's silver plated, valve oil, and slide grease. I have always used liquid dishwashing soap in lukewarm water to clean my trumpets, but some manufacturers don't recommend the soap. Check with your product information or your manufacturer's website to make sure before you use it.
You'll also need a high-quality valve oil and slide grease if you want to make your trumpet last. Just like a car, the valves of a trumpet need a film of oil on them to work well. I've become sort of fanatical about how my trumpet valves work. I've tried just about every available brand of oil on the market, and I've decided that synthetic oils are the only oils to use. They last longer, and they minimize wear on the valves.
You also need a heavy grease for the main tuning slide and second valve slide. If you don't grease these slides, they will wear, and you'll start to see your slide moving when you least expect it throwing you out of tune...usually at the most inopportune times. They can also stick badly enough that it requires a trip to the repair shop to pull them. If you use a heavy grease, it will last until your next cleaning.
First, fill a bathtub with enough lukewarm water to cover the instrument. Hot water can damage the finish, so it's best avoided. Disassemble all of the instrument, but don't remove the water keys (spit valves), remove any triggers if so equipped, or disassemble the valves. If you have a trigger on the first or third valve slides, you'll need to remove the screw that hold the slide on, but don't remove any of the other parts of the trigger. Trust me, you don't want to try to put a trigger or water key spring back on without the necessary tool.
After it's disassembled, place all of the parts except the valves into the lukewarm water, and let them soak for a few minutes. After the soaking, run the snake through all of the tubing. Don't force it through any of the tight bends. Just go as far as you can. Then scrub the inside of the valve casings with the valve casing brush. After that, run clean water through all the tubing until the water runs clear.
Next, using a soft cloth clean between all the outer tubing to remove any dirt or tarnish. You might need to use silver polish to remove the tarnish on a silver trumpet. Never use silver or brass polish on the outside of a lacquered or "brass" looking trumpet. There is a clear lacquer protecting the finish, and polish can remove it. Next clean the inside of the bottom valve caps with a paper towel. A lot of the crud settles in these caps.
After all the tubing on the horn is clean, and the outer surface of the trumpet is clean, it's time to pay attention to the valves. I use one end of the cleaning snake to clean the ports of the valves, and rinse them off with soap and water. Be careful inside the ports, You don't want to damage the metal with the end of the brush.
After all that, it's time to reassemble the horn, oil the valves and 1st and 3rd valve slides, and grease the main tuning slide and second valve slide. No, grease does not belong on the third valve slide. it will move too slowly. Oil is all you need. I know that seems like a long process, but it actually takes longer to type it than to do it, and your horn will last longer and play better afterward.
Thursday, December 8, 2011
Cleaning Your Trombone - Six Steps to a Smoother Trombone Slide
Does your trombone slide refuse to move as quickly as you want it to? Does playing feel uncomfortable because your slide is so rough? For most young trombonists, many playing problems can be solved simply by cleaning the trombone slide. After reading this article, you will be able to clean your slide and play trombone more easily.
The slide is the most delicate and important part of the trombone--it needs to move well for the player to change notes easily and play with good technique. Cleaning the slide takes about 15-30 minutes and only needs to be done once every two weeks, but can completely change the way you play. Cleaning the slide removes old lubricant, germs, and anything that you have blown into your trombone that shouldn't be there. Best of all, cleaning the slide can be done in six easy steps.
Step 1 - Gather your materials.
Start your trombone cleaning process at the music store. You will need to buy a flexible cleaning snake and a mouthpiece brush. Often, music stores sell "cleaning kits" with all the materials you need to clean your trombone. At home, get some gentle dish detergent, plastic cups, and a towel, and set your materials up around a bathtub or large sink.
Step 2 - Soak your mouthpiece.
Fill a plastic cup with hot water and a bit of detergent, and drop your mouthpiece in. Let it soak as you clean your slide, and then rinse it after you're done.
Step 3 - Clean the inside of your inner slide.
To clean your inner slide, pull your entire slide out of the case and lock your slide. You'll clean the inner slide with the outer slide still on, to protect it from damage. Put a drop of detergent into each tube, and then add a bit of warm water. Feed the snake down one tube, and gently scrub with an up-and-down motion. Pull the snake out and do the same thing with the other tube. Don't try to push the snake all the way through your slide--it might get stuck! After scrubbing, rinse the slide until you can pour out clear water with no soap suds.
Step 4 - Clean the outside of your inner slide.
This is the most delicate step of cleaning, because your inner slide can be easily damaged. Always handle your inner slide with great care, and be careful to keep it from hitting anything. Carefully pull your inner slide out and lay your outer slide gently on the towel. Put a drop of detergent on each stocking of your inner slide, and gently rub the detergent along the entire length of the slide. Rinse with warm water. When the slide squeaks when you rub it, it's clean!
Step 5 - Clean the inside of your outer slide.
Carefully place your inner slide on the towel and pick up your outer slide. Put detergent and water into your outer slide, and scrub and rinse just like you did in Step 2.
Step 6 - Finish Up! Clean your mouthpiece and tuning slide, and lubricate.
Take your mouthpiece out of the plastic cup, scrub it with your mouthpiece brush, and rinse with warm water. If your tuning slide is difficult to move, pull it out and clean it like you cleaned the outside of the inner slide in Step 3. Lubricate your slide and tuning slide with your favorite product. (Slide-O-Mix is great for slides and Selmer Tuning Slide and Cork Grease works well on tuning slides.)
After you've cleaned your trombone, your slide should move much more easily than it used to. If your slide begins to feel rough and slide oil doesn't help, you know it's time to clean your slide. Now that you know how to clean your trombone slide, playing your trombone will be easier and more comfortable.
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Saturday, December 3, 2011
MERKUR PROGRESS: SAFETY RAZOR SHAVING HOW TO LOAD BLADE, LATHER UP & PERFORM A 3 PASS SHAVE
CLICK HERE TO BUY : shavenation.com to Purchase the Merkur Progress Razor and Other Fine Shaving Items used in this video. This is an instructional tutorial on how to Install the Blade, properly, adjust, and shave with a MERKUR PROGRESS SAFETY RAZOR. Perform your shave from loading the blade, setting the adjustment properly to lathering up shaving cream & soap with a Badger Brush and performing a 3-Pass shaving Routine Completely. View it and follow along if you would like to learn How to Perform a Proper 3 Pass Wet Shave with the Merkur Progress Safety Razor.. Ihave safety razors by Merkur, Vision, Futur, Gillette, Parker, Weishi, and brushes by Rooney, Vulvix, Tweezerman, Silvertip badger, boar, and synthetic. Safety Razor Blades by Feather, Derby, Shark, Merkur, Gillette, and Wilkinson. I also own Straight razors by Boker, Wade & Butcher, Torrey, Geo Wostenholm & Sons, Nahoum Hatem, Thiers Issard, and Feather No Sharpen. Let me know if you would like to see a demonstration or tutorial on how to use any other razors that interest you. I also hone and strop my own razors if you have any questions about sharpening stones, blades, stropping, sharpening, paste, different grits etc. My favorite creams and soaps that I have used are by Proraso, Musgo Real, Taylors, Trumpers, Truefitt, Art of Shaving, Colonel Conk, and of course Old Spice!!! Best Wishes and " Go Get Your Shave On" !!! Check out my other videos for Safety Razor, Straight, Best Beard Prep, Cleaning new and used ...
Wednesday, November 30, 2011
Five Interesting Background Recorder Facts
It is very relaxing playing a musical instrument,like the recorder, on your own, with one other person or in a group. The recorder is a simple instrument which is easy to learn and play a tune. And it has been around for centuries. So it is very interesting to know a little background on the recorder to get the most of your musical experience on it.
You will discover what the recorder is with its varying sizes, how to play the recorder with examples of fingerings and sound and the history of the recorder with recorder connections to four great historical figures.
1. What is the Recorder:
The recorder is a woodwind instrument from ancient times made of plastic or wood. It consists of a straight pipe, 7 finger holes in the front, 1 thumb hole in the back and a detachable beak shaped mouthpiece.
The recorder was formerly known as 'English Flute' or 'Fipple Flute' because it was derived from the old English verb 'to record' which meant 'sing like a bird' and it has a fipple, which is the block of wood inserted in the end of the mouthpiece to create the wind pipe.
2. Recorders of Different Sizes:
There is a range of different sized recorders.
Here are five of them in order of size from smallest to biggest:
- Sopranino in the key of F
- Descant (soprano) in the key of C
- Treble (alto) in the key of F
- Tenor in the key of C
- Bass in the key of F
They all use the same fingering but are set in two different keys as mentioned above.
The lowest note of the descant and tenor recorders is C and hence they are in the key of C. This same fingered lowest note in the sopranino, descant and bass recorders is an F and hence they are in the key of F.
The sopranino, descant and bass recorders sound one octave higher than the written music to avoid too many ledger lines. Music is written at the same pitch for the tenor and treble recorders.
Music is written in the bass clef for the bass recorder and treble clef for the other four recorders.
The range of notes played covers two octaves except for the bass recorder which is slightly less.
The descant, treble and tenor recorders are the most common
3. How Do You Play the Recorder?
The recorder is played by placing the lips over the beak shaped mouthpiece and directing air through the small hole such that it passes over a sharp edge and vibrates in the main tube of the instrument.
Different sounds are created by placing the fingers over the holes in different orders. Each sound or note name has a particular finger pattern called fingering. eg you can start of by saying "the fingering of A is........"
4. What is the History of the Recorder?
The recorder was first established as being in existence in the 12th century.
The word 'recorder' first appeared in a document in 1388.
A recorder tutor was published in Venice in1535.
In the 15th and 16th century there were several sizes of recorder available which covered a wide range of notes. People played these in groups which is known as a 'consort' of recorders. Hence the 200 years from 1500 - 1700 was a popular period for the recorder with lots of 'consort' playing.
In the 18th century and after Handel died in 1759 the recorder started to decline in popularity and almost died due to the growth of the orchestra. It was found that the fuller tone of the modern flute combined better with the other instruments than the quieter tone of the recorder.
From 1919 Arnold Dolmetsch revived the recorder and is a favourable instrument with amateurs.
And today the recorder is a popular instrument for primary school children to learn as part of their music program.
5. Recorder Connections with Four Great Historical Figures:
a. King Henry VIII (1491 - 1547 and King from 21 April 1509) was an accomplished musician and noted recorder player. He had seventy six recorders plus other instruments including ten trombones, fourteen trumpets and five bagpipes.
b. William Shakespeare (1564 - 1616) was a famous poet and playwright. He had recorders either in his plays on stage (Hamlet), as a mention (Midsummer Nights Dream) or used to provide incidental music especially when a scene was quiet, religious or mournful.
c. Samuel Pepys (1633 - 1703) lived in London during the Great Plague and Great Fire of London in 1665 and 1666 and was an English Naval Administrator and Member of Parliament. He was most famous for his diary which recorded nearly ten years of his life between 1660 - 1669. The diary included accounts of the Great Plague and Fire and Second Dutch war and was first published in the 19th century. He loved music including the sound of the recorder at the theatre and decided to learn it. He also played other instruments and was a keen singer.
d. George Frederick Handel ( 1685 - 1759 ): He was a famous musician and composer and was one of many great composers who wrote music for the recorder.
Knowing what a recorder is with its varying sizes, historical connections and an introduction to sound production and method of play is provides five interesting background recorders facts that could influence a decision to play the recorder.
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Monday, November 28, 2011
CLEAN & DISINFECT RAZORS: SAFETY or DE DOUBLE EDGE HOW TO REMOVE SHAVING SHAVE CREAM RESIDUE
CLICK HERE TO BUY : www.shavenation.com to Purchase These and Other Fine Shaving Items. Safety or DE (Double Edge) Razors tend to accumulate shave cream and shaving soap over time. In this video I will perform an instructional tutorial describing the process of how to clean the razors and remove any residue left behind by extended periods of use. After that, you can disinfect your razors and they will be renewed to their original brilliance and shine. It is a good practice to perform this cleaning whenever you replace the blade on your razor. In general every 5-6 shaves... Never store your razors in a medicine cabinet or drawer. Always let them dry in the open air. For those new to Safety Razor and StraightRazor Wet Shaving, Here is a description of how it's done SAFETY RAZOR SHAVE SHAVING HOW TO PERFORM A 3 Pass Wet Shave with a Merkur HD Double Edge Safety Razor. Using a Badger Brush, Shaving Cream or Soap From a Tub, a German Made 2-Piece Safety Razor, and a Double Edge Razor Blade. A) Shower with Hot Water & Wash Beard with Soap B) Soak Badger Brush in Cup of Hot Water for 2 Minutes C) Fill Sink with Hot Water D) Apply shaving cream to Tips of Badger Brush E) Apply Hot Water to Beard/Do Not Dry Off F) Apply Shaving Cream or Shaving Soap to Beard 1) First Pass Straight Down With The Grain 2) Second Pass From Ear to Nose Across The Grain 3) Third Pass: From Nose to Ear with a Slight Upward Motion. Or, if you prefer/south to north against the grain 4) Rinse with Hot then ...
Saturday, November 26, 2011
BEST LATHER FOR SHAVING w/ a Straight or Safety Razor Barber Style Badger / Boar Brush, Cream, Soap
CLICK HERE TO BUY : shavenation.com to Purchase Shaving Creams, Soaps, and other Fine Shaving Items shown in this video. BEST LATHER Prior to a Shave with a Straight or Safety Razor, Or Any Razor For That Matter!!!! It Takes a Bit Longer But Your Beard and Whiskers Will Be Thoroughly Softened Moistened and Ready to be Sheared off Cleanly by Your Super Sharp Straight or Double Edge DE Blade. Great for a Weekend Morning or Before an Important Business Meeting or Date with that Special Someone. Ialso own other razors by Boker, Wade & Butcher, Torrey, Geo Wostenholm & Sons, Nahoum Hatem, and Feather No Sharpen, Let me know if you would like to see a demonstration or tutorial on how to use any other razors that interest you. I also hone and strop my own razors if you have any questions about sharpening stones, blades, stropping, sharpening, paste, different grits etc. My favorite creams and soaps that I have used are by Proraso, Musgo Real, Taylors, Trumpers, Truefitt, Art of Shaving, Colonel Conk, and of course Old Spice!!! Best Wishes and " Go Get Your Shave On" !!! Check out my other videos for Safety Razor, Straight, Best Beard Prep, Cleaning new and used Razors before first use, Proper Technique and How To do it Properly. I use both safety and straight razors. I have safety razors by Merkur, Vision, Futur, Gillette, Parker, Weishi, and brushes by Rooney, Vulvix, Tweezerman, Silvertip badger, boar, and synthetic. Safety Razor Blades by Feather, Derby, Shark, Merkur ...
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Wednesday, November 23, 2011
VIDEO TEST DRIVE: Schick Krona Black Handle
Cast: Geo F. Trumper Violet Shave Soap Frank Shaving Richmond Silvertip Brush Shark Super Chrome Schick Krona Bloc Osma Natural Alum Block Genuine Ogallala Bay Rum Sage & Cedar Conclusions: It's a mild razor that gives a good shave. It's forgiving to mistakes and could allow bad habits to form. The handle is a bit slick but a bit of alum on the fingers fixes that. Although it has a plastic handle the build quality is very solid.
Monday, November 21, 2011
SCHICK INJECTOR 70 YEAR OLD SAFETY RAZOR SHAVE: Wet Shaving With Cream, Brush, and the Geo Bowl
!±8± SCHICK INJECTOR 70 YEAR OLD SAFETY RAZOR SHAVE: Wet Shaving With Cream, Brush, and the Geo Bowl
CLICK HERE TO BUY : shavenation.com TO PURCHASE WET SHAVING PRODUCTS Schick Injector Razor Description and Shaving Demo. Areyou tired of the pulling and tugging that accompanies using your multi-blade cartridge razor? Sick of battling razor rash and ingrown hairs? Learn how to shave like your Grandfather and Father did! Yes, The old way is the best way!!! For those new to Straight and Safety Razor Wet Shaving, Here is a description of how it's done STRAIGHT RAZOR SHAVING. HOW TO PERFORM A shave using a Straight Razor, Badger Brush, and Shaving Cream or Soap From a Tub. A) Shower with Hot Water & Wash Beard with Soap B) Soak Badger Brush in Cup of Hot Water for 2 Minutes C) Fill Sink with Hot Water D) Apply shaving cream to Tips of Badger Brush E) Apply Hot Water to Beard/Do Not Dry Off F) Apply Shaving Cream or Shaving Soap to Beard G) Very Gently apply the razor to your face at a 30 degree angle. 1) First Pass Straight Down With The Grain 2) Second Pass From Ear to Nose Across The Grain 3) Third Pass: From Nose to Ear with a Slight Upward Motion. Or, if you prefer/South to North against the grain 4) Rinse with Hot then Cold Water. 5) Apply Your Favorite After Shave Lotion or Cream/Preferably Alcohol Free. 6) Now You're Ready to Conquer the World!!!!! Straight Razor and Safety Razor Wet Shaving I also own straight razors by Boker, Dovo, Wade & Butcher, Torrey, Geo Wostenholm & Sons, Thiers Issard Spartacus, Nahoum Hatem, and Feather No Sharpen Japanese and Folding style ...
Wednesday, November 16, 2011
Geo F. Trumper Eucris Eau de Toilette
!±8± Geo F. Trumper Eucris Eau de Toilette
Brand : Geo F. Trumper | Rate : 
| Price :
Post Date : Nov 16, 2011 05:00:10 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
| Price : Post Date : Nov 16, 2011 05:00:10 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
A sophisticated fragrance with top notes of blackcurrant, cumin and coriander, a heart of jasmine and muguet and base notes of sandalwood, musk and moss. Another Trumper original that is always in fashion. Eucris Cologne is presented in a renowned Trumper glass bottle with crown stopper.
More Specification..!!
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Friday, November 11, 2011
Straight Razor Shaving - Learn How to Shave With a Straight Razor
For first-time and relatively new users of straight razors, learning how to shave with a cut-throat razor not only sounds daunting but is also the time when susceptibility to getting nicks, cuts and lots of skin irritation is at its highest.
Many new straight razor shavers are put off quite early in their "career" and the razors are often consigned to the drawer or put back up for sale on an auction site.
Realising that learning how to shave with a straight razor is not an overnight task is quite important, as with learning any new skill that involves a tool of some kind, it requires patience, dexterity and of course a well-honed and shave-ready razor to complete the job properly.
Without these things, anyone shaving with a straight razor will most likely end up getting a sub-par shave, and this straight razor shaving guide should help you get off to a better start next time you pick up your favourite badger brush, cream and straight razor and set off tackling your beard.
First and foremost, the sharpness of the razor is the most important thing. Contrary to popular belief, the sharper the razor is does not mean that you will end up getting more cuts when compared to using a dull razor.
When you use a blade with a less than perfect edge, the razor will snag to varying degrees on your beard, and this snagging if not controlled properly will almost certainly lead to nicks and cuts.
Inexperienced straight razor shavers usually put this down to their own poor technique rather than the razor.
Learning how to shave with a sharp straight razor is the first point of call, and if you do not know how to restore the edge yourself, you should seek advice from an experienced straight razor shaver who will put you in touch with a "honemeister", a term often used on forums to describe someone that is very capable of restoring the sharpness on the edge of a straight razor.
Assuming at this stage you have a straight razor with a great shaving edge, you now need to strop the edge of the blade. To do this you will of course need a strop, which is a double-sided strip of leather and canvas used to run the blade backwards and forwards in two strokes. One forwards and one back, each motion is referred to as a "lap".
As such you should lap your straight razor, 20 or 30 times on each side of the strop, starting on the canvas first, and then using the leather-faced side last of all.
Stropping is very important as this process restores the edge of the straight razor between shaves by removing the residue and polishing the minuscule teeth on the edge of the razor that cannot be seen by the naked eye.
Learning a good stropping technique is important, as this will reward you with a great shave, meaning that you will have less skin irritation and virtually eliminate getting cuts or nicks.
The Straight Razor Shave
Start off with taking a regular shower to open the skin pores on your face, the more steam the better. Some straight razor shavers like to use some hair conditioner or a pre-shaving product during a shower to help ex-foliate the skin and soften the beard prior to shaving.
Once you have showered, run hot water into your bathroom sink and strop your razor, have a face towel or two to hand to clean up any spills during your shave, and remember to take your time during the first few months of shaving so that you can observe your technique and improve them during each future shave.
Shaving creams and soaps are vitally important to getting a good quality shave with a straight razor. Do not under any circumstances use a conventional shaving foam or gel that you would regularly use with a disposable or safety razor. These provide little to no skin protection when using a straight razor, and will make an even greater mess during and after the shave.
The shaving cream is designed to provide the skin with nourishment and act as a barrier between the straight razors edge and the skin/You will be surprised at how differently various shaving creams perform, smell, and have an effect on the skins appearance and feel when you have finished shaving.
The choice of shaving cream or soap that you use is a matter of personal preference, and there are literally hundreds to choose from. Using a good quality cream is highly recommended, and although highly subjective, to start using a shaving creams such as Musgo Real, Speick, Trumpers, Taylors, D.R. Harris and Crabtree Evelyn, you won't go far wrong.
As you progress with straight razor shaving, you will identify what shaving creams and soaps suit you best.
With your shaving brush to hand, soak the brush in hot water (not boiling), and gently shake out the excess water in the sink. Then add a spot of shaving cream to the brush, slightly smaller than a small marble, wet the face, and then slowly start scrubbing your face with the brush, applying a moderate amount of pressure using a circular motion in both directions until the face and neck area have a fairly consistent coating of shaving cream.
Refrain from adding too much water to the brush or face as you are lathering up, you can always add a spot more to encourage lathering if your brush is well-loaded with shaving cream. You will know if this is the case or not as the cream will feel thick as the brush is moved across the face.
Experiment with adding tiny amounts of water to the face once shaving cream has been applied until it feels right. Too much water will make the cream run thin, and not provide an effective barrier for your skin, and this will almost certainly lead to skin irritation. You can always add a touch more shaving cream to your brush and start over if this is the case.
Now that you are ready to shave, take your straight razor and pull the skin tight using your non-shaving hand, and start with a downward shaving pass on your face. Unlike using a conventional safety razor, you will soon learn that the best straight razor shaves come from using skin pulling techniques that you will learn as you go.
The skin should always be tightened by your fingers or hand during each stroke with a straight razor. Shaving on slack skin will only result in snagging and cuts, so you will need to start getting used to using your other hand to help tighten the skin.
The straight razor should be held at approximately 30 degrees to the face, perhaps slightly shallower. Higher degrees of cutting will again result in poor cutting results and possible cuts, so use your eyes as the razor moves during each stroke and maintain the correct cutting angle.
During your first few shaves with a straight razor, remember that you do not have to complete the whole shave using the straight. You are not obliged to complete the whole shave during the first stages of the learning process, and it is no disgrace to pick up a disposable to finish off small areas that you may have missed.
This will not only save you a great deal of frustration trying to reach seemingly inaccessible areas, it will also greatly reduce your chances of getting a nick. Patience is the key.
Once you have completed your first downward pass, you may want to try an upward pass to get a very close shave.
Splash off the remaining cream from your face with some water and re-apply your shaving cream, using a lighter pressure with the shaving brush. Use a circular motion once again until the face and neck area have a good coating of shaving cream, soak and wipe the razor with a piece of kitchen towel, or an old flannel taking great care not to touch the edge of the razor and you are now ready to start the second, upward pass.
Using the same techniques in the reverse direction, pulling the skin on the neck downwards with one hand, using a 30 degree angle, start the upward strokes, gently and with consistent pressure until the neck area is done. Then pull the skin downwards from the lower chin area and work your way over the jawbone onto the cheeks.
At this stage you should now start pulling the skin upwards on the cheek area and maintain the strokes with your straight razor until the cheeks are done.
Shaving with an upward stroke on the moustache and chin areas is something that many straight razor shavers do, though it is recommended that you should only start doing this if you really need to, and only once you have become confident in using the straight razor.
When you have finished both passes on your skin, clean your razor by running some cold water on the blade and using a kitchen towel to remove all moisture from the razor. You can pick the razor up and blow any excess water through the gap in the scales as well.
This will prevent any water from dripping down into the gaps where the pins and washers meet the blade which is where the majority of rust spots start on a razor if it is poorly maintained.
Open the blade and place it on a towel somewhere to allow it to dry out for 10-15 minutes.
Prior to storing the razor, you may add a tiny spot of mineral oil to the blade and rub it in gently using a dry piece of kitchen towel or cloth.
After the shave you will want to relieve the skin after it has been ex-foliated by the straight razor.
Like shaving creams, there are just as many choices when it comes to shaving balms and aftershaves, and for new straight razor users, try using types that contain no alcohol and have skin-nourishing ingredients in them.
I will explain the various merits of shaving creams, soaps, balms and aftershaves in future articles.
If you obtain any nicks or cuts during the course of the straight razor shave, put down the razor, clean the nicked area with a little water, and apply gently pressure with the styptic pencil directly on the cut. There will be a stinging sensation that will pass very quickly, and after a few moments the cut will stop bleeding allowing you to complete the rest of your shave.
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